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96 Points
Wendouree Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the central and western blocks on their historic vineyard. The cooler central block with its smaller berries is known for its “spicy characters and very firm almost astringent tannins”. The western side brings “floral” details and a softer structure. Consultant winemaker Stephen George – together with Lita and Tony Brady – make a wine that profoundly articulates the individual character of this unique and important vineyard site. After vinification in open fermenters, the wine completes fermentation and remains in stainless steel until November before maturation in new (about 25%) and used French oak for 12 months. This is a very muscular cellaring style with dark chocolate mint fruit characters and fine vice-like tannins.
Wendouree Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the central and western blocks on their historic vineyard. The cooler central block with its smaller berries is known for its “spicy characters and very firm almost astringent tannins”. The western side brings “floral” details and a softer structure. Consultant winemaker Stephen George – together with Lita and Tony Brady – make a wine that profoundly articulates the individual character of this unique and important vineyard site. After vinification in open fermenters, the wine completes fermentation and remains in stainless steel until November before maturation in new (about 25%) and used French oak for 12 months. This is a very muscular cellaring style with dark chocolate mint fruit characters and fine vice-like tannins.
From 1971 and 2002 plantings, so in the Wendouree world, young vines!...Blackcurrant, blackberry, cherry, aniseed and vanilla nougat. Medium bodied, fresh and bright, and has what you might call a ‘high tensile’ feel, kind of like a wire pulled very tight, the way it runs through the mouth. Iron. Steel. Tannin is assertive, but not uncompromising, and the way it surges through the finish line is both athletic, and impressive. The quality is high. Less flesh, more bone structure. Age will most certainly not weary it. As it takes the air in the glass, it fills out and flexes most impressively.
Wendouree has remained one of the quiet benchmarks of Australian wine since the vineyard was first planted in 1893 by Alfred Percy Birks. Today, Tony and Lita Brady continue the estate’s deeply traditional approach, preserving a style shaped by old vines, low-intervention viticulture, and an unwavering connection to place. Situated on an easterly ridge on the northern edge of South Australia’s Clare Valley, the unirrigated vineyards are rooted in shallow red loam over limestone, conditions that naturally limit yields and intensify concentration.
The estate’s oldest Shiraz vines, many dating back to the original 1893 plantings, are believed to contain genetic material linked to the historic James Busby collection. These low-yielding vines produce small berries with thick skins and high seed content, giving Wendouree wines their structure, depth, and longevity. In the winery, the approach remains deliberately restrained and largely laissez-faire, allowing vineyard character and seasonal variation to define each release rather than heavy-handed winemaking.
Despite the estate’s standing among Australia’s most revered producers, older bottles remain remarkably scarce. Until 1974, Wendouree wines were sold in bulk to merchants for bottling and distribution, meaning many early wines were blended or released without estate labelling. That rarity has only deepened the reputation of Wendouree Shiraz, now regarded as one of the country’s most distinctive and enduring expressions of old-vine Australian Shiraz.
Established in 1892, the Clare Valley vineyard remains the foundation of Wendouree’s wines. Across just 12 hectares, the site preserves a rare collection of old vines, including bush-trained Shiraz planted in 1892 and 1893, along with Mataro grafted onto 1898 rootstock. The eastern block includes Shiraz planted in 1919 and 1920, plus Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec grafted onto 1920s rootstock. The youngest plantings date from 1975 and the early 1980s, offering a living record of Clare Valley viticulture.
The unirrigated vineyards are planted predominantly on red loam over limestone, with smaller sections of shale and sandy loam adding further complexity. Elevations range from 450 to 530 metres, yet the reds are typically harvested earlier than elsewhere in Clare Valley. Naturally low yields, averaging just under 30 hectolitres per hectare, produce wines of concentration, structure, and balance.
Winemaking remains deliberately traditional. Fruit is hand-harvested, basket pressed, and fermented in open-top fermenters with manual plunging. The wines undergo malolactic fermentation in stainless steel before maturation in 300-litre fine-grain French oak barrels, around 25% new, for approximately 12 months. Blending takes place after ageing, with bottling carried out using only a light filtration.
Blackcurrant, blackberry, cherry, aniseed and vanilla nougat.
Medium bodied, fresh and bright, and has what you might call a ‘high tensile’ feel, kind of like a wire pulled very tight, the way it runs through the mouth. Iron. Steel. Tannin is assertive, but not uncompromising, and the way it surges through the finish line is both athletic, and impressive.
The quality is high. Less flesh, more bone structure. Age will most certainly not weary it. As it takes the air in the glass, it fills out and flexes most impressively