Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

One of the distinctive features of this wine, and in a way a DNA link to all Art Series cabernet, is its savouriness. It’s the rolled tobacco, nori, iodine and whiff of new leather plus the cedary oak, but these are not separate, they form a whole impression. There’s also the core of excellent fruit, the structure, the supple tannins and the bright acidity. And the joy of drinking it.

Immediately captivating: the nose is vibrant and energetic, while simultaneously the epitome of elegance and poise with restrained fruit power. This is a silk evening gown of a wine: form-fitting, precisely tailored, mellifluous and effortlessly chic. Abundant in aromatics and lifted perfume, fine red fruits include wild strawberry tip, bramble and just-ripe blackcurrant, alongside hints of piquancy: Szechwan pepper, clove and a fine dusting of deep, lightly toasted cocoa powder. There’s a charismatic iodine weave, the savoury and slightly saline minerality proving a foil to both the fruit flesh and the floral hues. Displaying extremely fine-grained tannins, it's firm, focused and delicate, with a graphite line, fresh acidity and plenty that will reveal itself in good time. Tasted pre-release.

On the palate, the wine is perfumed and fine, lightweight and flowing. It's a beautiful wine to drink now, thanks to its powdery tannins. It's all about the tannins here; it's whippy, like fresh new growth on a plant. I would drink this anytime from release; it offers tremendous pleasure just as it is.