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96 Points
Riesling from the cliff’s edge—delicate, bright, and deeply mineral.The 2023 Joh. Jos. Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is a thrilling expression from one of the Mosel’s most dramatically steep and stony sites. Zeltinger Sonnenuhr sits just north of Wehlen and shares its southern exposure and slate soils, but with even less topsoil and older vines—some over 60 years old—yielding lower quantities and greater density in the glass.
This Spätlese is all tension and texture. The fruit—yellow plum, lemon candy, and subtle herbal lift—is wrapped around a vivid spine of acidity and that unmistakable wet-slate character. It's a wine of interplay: ripe yet crystalline, charming now yet structured to evolve. The finish dances with citrus and salinity, a reminder that great Mosel Riesling is built on lightness, not weight.
Whether savoured now or laid down for the long haul, this is Prüm doing what it does best—showing off site and style in perfect harmony.
Riesling from the cliff’s edge—delicate, bright, and deeply mineral.The 2023 Joh. Jos. Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is a thrilling expression from one of the Mosel’s most dramatically steep and stony sites. Zeltinger Sonnenuhr sits just north of Wehlen and shares its southern exposure and slate soils, but with even less topsoil and older vines—some over 60 years old—yielding lower quantities and greater density in the glass.
This Spätlese is all tension and texture. The fruit—yellow plum, lemon candy, and subtle herbal lift—is wrapped around a vivid spine of acidity and that unmistakable wet-slate character. It's a wine of interplay: ripe yet crystalline, charming now yet structured to evolve. The finish dances with citrus and salinity, a reminder that great Mosel Riesling is built on lightness, not weight.
Whether savoured now or laid down for the long haul, this is Prüm doing what it does best—showing off site and style in perfect harmony.
The 2023 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese is still a little reductive. A slight dried herbal frisson plays around tender yellow plum notes on the shy nose. The palate is beautifully light and vividly citric with gentle lemon candy sweetness and luminous freshness. A tingling, balanced, vivid finish accentuates the lightness.
The 2023 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese opens with a highly delicate bouquet of finely crushed or weathered slate into which the fruit is bedded like a princess... dense and stimulating saline and frisky Spätlese from one of the finest Mosel terroirs.
The Prüm family story in the Mosel dates back to 1156, beginning with was Johann Josef Prüm (1873 - 1944) who founded the estate in 1911. By the mid-1930s Johann Josef’s son, Sebastian, forged the distinctive style of the Prüm wines. From 1969, the imitable Dr Manfred Prüm would elevate Joh. Jos. Prüm to even greater heights, today the estate is run by Manfred’s daughter Katharina Prüm who watches over 13.5 hectares of vines on the harrowing slate-rich slopes of the Middle Mosel. In The Wines of Germany, Stephen Brook writes “With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the Mosel, one might have supposed that Joh. Jos. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit.” Which begs the question, what is the secret to J.J. Prüm's continued success? How do they stand out among top Mosel producers? It’s all about their exceptional vineyards: old vines at great sites, keeping the lowest yields, daring but calculated late harvesting, and a careful selection of the finest berries.
Joh. Jos. Prüm's vineyards are at forefront of the estate's success. Their holdings include vineyards - Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. All of these sites are exclusively dedicated to growing and harvesting Riesling grapes for Joh. Jos. Depending on the specific vintage, the average annual production of wine is typically between 10,000 to 13,000 cases.
Prum’s four key vineyards are all located on the same continuous slope, all on a mixture of grey and blue Devonian slate soils with varying south-to-south westerly aspects. Positioned in the heart of Mosel the vineyards are named from south to north: Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher Himmelreich, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. These vineyards have been in continuous production for some 2000 years.
The major differences between the sites have to do with the variation in the aspect (from south to southwest) and the steepness and the depth of the soil. These are subtle differences, but make for wonderfully distinctive wines. Of course all the vineyards of J.J. Prüm are renowned, but the majestic Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard that is the most famous. The revered site lies opposite the village of Wehlen and the Estate owns seven hectares—largely planted to ungrafted wines—which has very thin topsoil over Devonian slate (in some areas of the vineyard the plants grow out of pure rock!). Wehlener Sonnenuhr has the highest pure stone content of all the Prüm vineyards, and along with neighbouring Zeltinger, the steepest of Prüm’s vineyards—with a dizzying 65-70% gradient in places. Wine writer Stuart Pigott summarises perfectly, “In top vintages the Wehlener Sonnenuhr yields the richest, silkiest, most seductive wines on the Mosel. The fame of these Rieslings is inextricably linked with that of the Joh Jos Prüm estate.”
Shy at first, with yellow plum, dried herbs, and crushed slate.
Lemon zest, gentle sweetness, and bracing acidity create a vivid, citric lift.
Long, light, and mineral-driven with a persistent, citrus-charged tail.