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98 Points
The soul of the Mosel, bottled with grace and gravity. The 2023 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is a masterclass in Mosel elegance—an iconic vineyard translated through the lens of a perfectly pitched vintage. This steep, stony site—with its dizzying 70% gradient, grey slate soils, and pinpoint south-southwest exposure—produces wines that are as timeless as they are thrilling. Here, the Prüm family shows exactly why this vineyard has become synonymous with German Riesling at its highest level.
Expect white peach, lemon blossom, and flint on the nose, followed by a palate that floats and grips all at once—filigreed sweetness, shimmering acidity, and deep minerality in perfect tension. It's not loud; it's quietly commanding, a Spätlese of understated richness and remarkable finesse. Though already harmonious, this wine is built to reward decades of patience in the cellar.
Put simply: if you’re going to understand the magic of Mosel Riesling, this is where to begin—and linger.
The soul of the Mosel, bottled with grace and gravity. The 2023 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is a masterclass in Mosel elegance—an iconic vineyard translated through the lens of a perfectly pitched vintage. This steep, stony site—with its dizzying 70% gradient, grey slate soils, and pinpoint south-southwest exposure—produces wines that are as timeless as they are thrilling. Here, the Prüm family shows exactly why this vineyard has become synonymous with German Riesling at its highest level.
Expect white peach, lemon blossom, and flint on the nose, followed by a palate that floats and grips all at once—filigreed sweetness, shimmering acidity, and deep minerality in perfect tension. It's not loud; it's quietly commanding, a Spätlese of understated richness and remarkable finesse. Though already harmonious, this wine is built to reward decades of patience in the cellar.
Put simply: if you’re going to understand the magic of Mosel Riesling, this is where to begin—and linger.
The sensuous curves of Art Nouveau design and joyful flourishes of rococo both give an idea of what Mosel riesling elegance means, but in a masterpiece like this it takes on a totally distinctive feeling... The white peach fruit, white flower aromas and slatey minerality all tingle on your palate, then flicker on and on in a totally fascinating manner...
The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese opens with a serene, stony, salty slaty breeze. The palate is exquisitely fine and very bright, luminous even... Slenderness and serenity are exemplary.
Concentrated and very intense on the fruit-driven, deep and spicy nose... elegant and refined on the dense and seriously structured, salivating palate... endlessly salty in the present.
Ein Hochgenuss in allen Facetten... filigran und mundfüllend zugleich. Die Struktur ist atemberaubend... sollte man bestenfalls von beiden genug im Keller haben.
The Prüm family story in the Mosel dates back to 1156, beginning with was Johann Josef Prüm (1873 - 1944) who founded the estate in 1911. By the mid-1930s Johann Josef’s son, Sebastian, forged the distinctive style of the Prüm wines. From 1969, the imitable Dr Manfred Prüm would elevate Joh. Jos. Prüm to even greater heights, today the estate is run by Manfred’s daughter Katharina Prüm who watches over 13.5 hectares of vines on the harrowing slate-rich slopes of the Middle Mosel. In The Wines of Germany, Stephen Brook writes “With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the Mosel, one might have supposed that Joh. Jos. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit.” Which begs the question, what is the secret to J.J. Prüm's continued success? How do they stand out among top Mosel producers? It’s all about their exceptional vineyards: old vines at great sites, keeping the lowest yields, daring but calculated late harvesting, and a careful selection of the finest berries.
Joh. Jos. Prüm's vineyards are at forefront of the estate's success. Their holdings include vineyards - Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. All of these sites are exclusively dedicated to growing and harvesting Riesling grapes for Joh. Jos. Depending on the specific vintage, the average annual production of wine is typically between 10,000 to 13,000 cases.
Prum’s four key vineyards are all located on the same continuous slope, all on a mixture of grey and blue Devonian slate soils with varying south-to-south westerly aspects. Positioned in the heart of Mosel the vineyards are named from south to north: Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher Himmelreich, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. These vineyards have been in continuous production for some 2000 years.
The major differences between the sites have to do with the variation in the aspect (from south to southwest) and the steepness and the depth of the soil. These are subtle differences, but make for wonderfully distinctive wines. Of course all the vineyards of J.J. Prüm are renowned, but the majestic Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard that is the most famous. The revered site lies opposite the village of Wehlen and the Estate owns seven hectares—largely planted to ungrafted wines—which has very thin topsoil over Devonian slate (in some areas of the vineyard the plants grow out of pure rock!). Wehlener Sonnenuhr has the highest pure stone content of all the Prüm vineyards, and along with neighbouring Zeltinger, the steepest of Prüm’s vineyards—with a dizzying 65-70% gradient in places. Wine writer Stuart Pigott summarises perfectly, “In top vintages the Wehlener Sonnenuhr yields the richest, silkiest, most seductive wines on the Mosel. The fame of these Rieslings is inextricably linked with that of the Joh Jos Prüm estate.”
White peach, honeysuckle, crushed slate, and citrus oil.
Bright, crystalline acidity carries ripe fruit and delicate sweetness across a filigreed structure.
Mineral-driven, persistent, and refined, with a flicker of sweetness that hums beneath it all.