Product Information:
With 100 points from Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux and 97+ from Gary Walsh, The Wine Front. You'll want to be quick as this won't last long. Characters of matchstick are evident and in keeping with recent vintages 2017-2021. An intensely aromatic wine backed by powerful fruit. Complex characters of subterranean smoky peat emerge, with an explosion of white peach and nectarine on the finish. Penetratingly long, yet fine, with all the hallmarks of Giaconda chardonnay that you have come to expect.
Maker:
Giaconda vineyard was established by Rick Kinzbrunner, a mechanical engineer who became interested in wine in the early 1970's. Rick then spent the next ten years working in the industry, travelling and following his passion for wine. After a brief stint in New Zealand, he studied at Davis University in California and worked at some of the most respected wineries in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys (namely Stag's Leap, Simi and Matanzas Creek). In Europe he worked for the Moueix group in Bordeaux, co-owner of the fabled Chateau Petrus.
After returning to Australia in 1980 to take up a position as assistant winemaker at Brown Brothers in Milawa, Rick purchased land in the nearby Beechworth wine region - at the foothills of the beautiful North-East Victorian Alps. Planting commenced in 1982 and the property is now devoted solely to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz. A separate planting of Nebbiolo has also been established close to the Beechworth township at Red Hill. Total area under vines at the Giaconda Estate Vineyard is now 4 hectares. Annual wine production is approximately 2,500 dozen bottles.
Philosophy:
Giaconda's estate vineyard is managed sustainability and carefully according to environmental consciousness. Since 2018 they have been fully certified organic by the Bio Dynamic Research Institute (BDRI). The Australian Demeter Bio-Dynamic Method is a world leader in practices of ecological and sustainable farming.
At an altitude of 400+ metres (1,312 feet) the site and climate are influenced by the surrounding alpine valleys. The Chardonnay is planted on a relatively cool south-facing slope which is sheltered from the direct impact of the sun's rays. This results in a much slower ripening period, greater flavour complexity and natural acid levels. The Estate lies in a small valley which benefits from a light breeze much of the time; this is very effective in controlling disease.
The soil is 450 million year old granitic loam over decomposed gravel and clay. The clay is important in allowing sustained water-release to the vine roots; while the soil, being not too rich, is ideal for wine quality - lower yields are naturally regulated. The vines are drip irrigated in hotter years only when it is necessary to prevent vine stress. The average rainfall is 800 mm annually, a little of which can be received during summer. Nights are generally cool with days being fairly warm, providing ideal conditions for slow ripening. Vintage begins in late February or early March, depending on the season. All grapes are hand-picked in the cool of the early morning before being processing at the winery on site. Cropping levels are approximately 2.5 tonnes per acre.
To Giaconda wine making should be subtle and always seek balance - this should never seek to dominate the Terroir or characteristics of any given vintage. Giaconda wines are hand-crafted according to basically a natural wine making process. To us this means indigenous yeasts are employed for fermentation, natural bacteria for Malolactic fermentation, French oak barrel ageing, minimal sulphur additions, and no filtration before bottling.
The winery, barrel maturation cave and bottling facility are all set up for gravity flow. This means the wines are very rarely pumped or manipulated mechanically. Instead they are gently moved by gravity or gas pressure during the entire wine making process.
In the case of Chardonnay, fruit is hand picked, lightly crushed and then basket pressed - before being transferred to French oak barrels (approximately 30% new) for fermentation and ageing. For the red wines, a combination of whole bunch and de-stemmed crushed fruit is transferred to large concrete tanks for fermentation. These wines remain on skins for an extended period to develop softer, finer tannins and more complexity; before being basket pressed and transferred to French oak barrels (up to 40% new in some cases) for ageing.
Wines are aged in French oak for almost two years - deep underground in the granite purpose built maturation cave. This cave offers optimal conditions for fermentation and ageing with a stable temperature of 16 degrees centigrade and naturally high humidity all year round.
Nose - Matchstick, Aromatic Florals, Powerful Fruit
It has plenty of struck match, but also white peach and nectarine, it fairly drips with white fruit richness, cashew and spice, aniseed, vanilla, and yeah, quite a bit of snuffed candle.
Palate - Peat, White Peach, Very Fine
It’s glossy and viscous, but has a superb cut of limey acidity, so much tang and juiciness to white fleshed fruit, such bite and intensity.
Finish - Penetrating, White Fleshed Fruit, Spiced Cashew Nut
More of that spiced cashew flavour on a finish of outstanding length. Such concentration and vigour. It’s pretty much unlike most Australian Chardonnay wines, because it’s just so bold and commanding. Insane.
I have the current releases of Nebbiolo, Roussanne and Shiraz to review, which is nice. But here we have the Big Boy of Beechworth, the wine that people lose their minds over. Of course, they don’t send these wines in for review, but as I always say “Nobody puts Baby in a corner”.
This is such a powerful wine. It has plenty of struck match, but also white peach and nectarine, it fairly drips with white fruit richness, cashew and spice, aniseed, vanilla, and yeah, quite a bit of snuffed candle. It’s glossy and viscous, but has a superb cut of limey acidity, so much tang and juiciness to white fleshed fruit, such bite and intensity, and more of that spiced cashew flavour on a finish of outstanding length. Such concentration and vigour. It’s pretty much unlike most Australian Chardonnay wines, because it’s just so bold and commanding. Insane. It’s quite something. - Gary Walsh, The Wine Front, 97+.
The Finer Details
Style - White Wine
Varietal - Chardonnay
Country - Australia
Region - Beechworth, Victoria
Vintage - 2022
Bottle Size - 750ml
ABV - 13.5%
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