Domaine Des Comtes Lafon Monthelie Les Duresses 2020
Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a renowned wine producer located in Meursault, Burgundy. The estate is celebrated for crafting exceptional and highly sought-after white wines made from Chardonnay grapes. In addition to Meursault, the domaine also owns vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. One of the notable features of Domaine des Comtes Lafon is its deep and cold cellars, which are the most extensive in Burgundy. These cellars foster the production of some of Burgundy's greatest dry white wines. Dominique Lafon, the leading producer in Meursault, is responsible for creating wines of astonishing depth and complexity while maintaining superb balance. The history of the estate dates back to 1869 when the Boch family built the house and cellar at Clos de la Barre. However, it was Comte Jules Lafon, who married Mademoiselle Marie Boch in 1894, that truly established the domaine. Comte Jules Lafon had the foresight to acquire exceptionally well-situated plots in the finest vineyards of Meursault, Volnay,and even a treasured piece of Le Montrachet in 1919. Dominique Lafon took over the estate in 1985, inheriting a domaine that already had a reputation for outstanding white wines, as well as the potential for good reds. When he assumed control, most of the vineyards were leased out on a share-cropping basis. It was only towards the end of the 1980s that Lafon managed to reclaim all the vineyards, allowing him full responsibility for their cultivation. Since then, the white wines have consistently ranked among the best in Burgundy, while the reds have achieved top-tier status since 1989. The domaine's holdings are not only in the finest vineyards of Meursault and Volnay, but they are also strategically situated within these vineyards. Today, the domaine follows biodynamic principles, eschewing herbicides and chemical sprays in their viticultural practices. All the wines undergo barrel fermentation, with new oak used for the premier crus and higher. After malolactic fermentation, only one racking takes place and the wines are bottled nearly two years after the vintage. This late bottling is one of the latest in Burgundy. The wines of Domaine des Comtes Lafon represent the pinnacle of White Burgundy, characterized by superlative fruit, power, complexity and perfect harmony. The red wines, including those from Volnay and Monthélie, also showcase exceptional quality.
Les Duresses is a premier cru vineyard situated on the western side of the Monthélie appellation in the Côte de Beaune region of Burgundy. Spanning 6.7 hectares, the vineyard primarily cultivates Pinot Noir with a small portion dedicated to Chardonnay on the upper slope. Bordering its counterpart in Auxey-Duresses, the vineyard benefits from a terroir composed of pebbly marl with clay, particularly lower down the slope. The presence of Argovian limestone in the soil contributes to the minerality found in wines from Les Duresses. The vineyard's steep hillside location, facing east, grants the vines morning sunlight while sheltering them from the intense afternoon sun, resulting in a relatively cool mesoclimate. The Monthélie portion of Les Duresses produces predominantly red wines, while a few notable white examples can also be found. The wines from this premier cru vineyard are known for their delicate nature. The Auxey-Duresses section of Les Duresses receives more sunlight, leading to slightly less delicate wines compared to its Monthélie counterpart. Les Duresses offers a unique expression of Burgundian terroir, showcasing the distinct characteristics of its location and soil composition. From red to white, the wines produced from this premier cru vineyard continue to captivate wine enthusiasts with their finesse and complexity.
The Domaine Comtes Lafon Monthelie Les Duresses 2020 is an exquisite red wine that showcases the unique characteristics of this renowned producer. It offers a ripe and nuanced blackberry and bramble fruit character, with a pure pinot nose that exudes freshness and vitality. The texture of the wine is exuberant and youthful, displaying a thick, textured deep raspberry fruit on the palate. It has a medium to full-bodied profile, with a good core of fruit and moderate tannins that provide structure. On the nose, this wine offers enticing aromas of dark cherries, berries, spices and loamy soil. The palate is layered and concentrated, with terrific depth and energy. It reveals a touch of extra concentration and ripeness from the vintage, with a rich and delicious blend of black raspberries, fruitcake, dark soil tones, woodsmoke and a hint of violets. The wine finishes with a long, tangy and complex finish, showcasing the concentrated effect from desiccated berries that were prevalent in this vintage. This red wine is not intended for long ageing, but it is highly enjoyable in its youth. It offers a great balance of fruit weight, freshness and persistence. With its depth, concentration and complex profile, it is a wine that showcases the expertise and craftsmanship of Domaine Comtes Lafon.
A delicious result, with a ripe, nuanced blackberry and bramble fruit character. The texture of the wine has an exuberant, youthful freshness and vivacity. Not for long ageing, but very enjoyable on the fruit alone. Lafon owns more than a hectare in the east-facing Monthélie premier cru of Les Duresses. It is not among his most high-profile bottlings, but perhaps he feels free to experiment a bit because of this. Unlike most reds, a good proportion of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters and the wine sees no sulphur before bottling. Drink 2023-2040. - Charles Curtis MW, Decanter, 93 Points.
Offering up aromas of dark cherries, berries, spices and loamy soil, the 2020 Monthélie Les Duresses is medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with terrific depth and energy. It's one of the finest renditions of this cuvée that I can remember tasting chez Lafon. Dominique Lafon celebrated his official retirement in December 2021, after 37 years at the domaine, and is handing over the reins to daughter Léa and nephew Pierre, even if he will surely still be on hand to help the new generation for many years to come. He can reflect with satisfaction on an important career, as the first generation of the Lafon family to become a farmer and grow the grapes he vinified and as one of his generation's leading pioneers of organic farming. And he can certainly be satisfied with the 2020 vintage, a terrific success at this address. As the accompanying notes attest, I was very impressed, and special mention is owing to the best set of red wines I can remember tasting here. - Wine Advocate.
The Finer Details
Style - Red Wine
Varietal - Pinot Noir
Country - France
Region - Burgundy
Vintage - 2020
Bottle Size - 750ml
ABV - 13.5%