Champagne Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2013

The 2013 is the most powerful, dense young Salon I have ever tasted. Champagne of mind-bending complexity, the 2013 possesses tremendous mid-palate intensity and power from the very first taste. Lemon confit, dried flowers, mint and a touch of brioche appear first, followed by light tropical accents that add an exotic flair. Imagine the sizzling energy of the 2008 and the persistence of 2004, with more mid-palate richness and riper fruit. Two-thousand thirteen was a cool, late ripening year. Harvest started at the beginning of October under sunny, dry days and cool nights, conditions that have not been seen since then. Readers will find a spectacular, modern Salon endowed with tremendous depth and very little of the youthful austerity that once defined Champagnes from cooler years here. The 5.5 grams per liter of dosage is perfectly judged. In a word: Magnificent.

The first impression upon release in September 2023 is of surprisingly open, welcoming fragrance for young Salon; orange cream, floral honey and lemon peel, backed up with delicate browned pastry, milky oyster and nut oil complexity that speaks of the long lees ageing. It is taut rather than austere, with a delicate, even level of flesh on its rigid bones as the classic chalky marine squeeze of Le Mesnil takes hold and propels a long, detailed lemon peel finish. This could prove a classic Salon given considerable patience.

At the moment, disarmingly open and approachable (Didier Depond compares 2013 to 1983 in this respect and expects it to close down in 18–24 months). Subtle biscuit notes on the nose, creamy on the palate with masses of concentration and many layers of texture. Fine mousse with a savoury/salty edge freshening up the finish. Plenty of driving acidity underneath but not at all unbalanced. Clearly a very long future ahead and I suspect it will need to be cellared for at least 5 years if not enjoyed in the first flush of ‘youth’!