By Farr GC Cote Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

By Farr is the brand of the Farr Family, started in 1994 by Robyn and Gary on a north facing slope in the township of Bannockburn in the Moorabool Valley. The Original wines where Chardonnay by Farr, Viognier by Farr, Shiraz by Farr and Pinot Noir by Farr now known as Sangreal by Farr. Overtime with the help of Cassie and Nick the vineyards have expand to adjoining neighbouring properties and eventually greater expression of the single site wines that we have today because of the pieces of dirt that we love to farm. The wines of By Farr are built around complexity, layered structure and undeniable length that places them in the highest regard by both consumers for their drinkability and age worthiness or critics around the world for their individuality.

The Farr estate is located in the Moorabool Valley between Geelong and Ballarat, 100km southwest of Melbourne. Gary and Robyn Farr purchased the original property in 1994 and the second section in 1998—this latter had been untouched for almost 40 years and consisted of dense boxthorn and noxious weeds. The final piece of the puzzle, which links the two blocks of land, was purchased by Nick and Cassie Farr in 2011, making a total of 130 acres. Nick and Gary Farr stand side by side, but aren’t afraid to go head-to-head when their opinions differ. Each generation has developed a distinctive winemaking style based on his individual experience and taste, and their respective lines - By Farr by Gary, and Farr Rising by Nick - have received critical acclaim both in Australia and overseas.

The GC Chardonnay (GC – Gary Charles) is attributed to all the knowledge we have been able to extract from Gary to create a close planted / high density planting of chardonnay on an exposed côte. These hillsides facing North, North East and East will be the backbone of the Farr dynasty for decades to come. They consist of the most suitable clones, rootstocks, trellising and management you will find for our landscape. This is our tribute to what ‘Gazza’ has achieved and provoked over 40 years not only in our region but for chardonnay and pinot noir of Australia. 

The North côte is a red to brown loam with buckshot stones across the surface. The most exposed of the three côtes, the North côte is harvested last of all because of the large amount of clay, holding valuable moisture for a much longer time than the other slopes. The East côte is divided through the centre of the slope by a rise. Black volcanic soil with fragmented limestone in one direction and grey loam with buckshot stones in the other direction. Soil is King as the East côte has the least amount of clay and therefore least water-holding capacity resulting in it being harvested first even though it is the coolest côte of the three. The fruit is hand-picked then whole-bunch pressed in the winery. All the solids are collected and chilled before being put to barrel, which are 50 per cent new French oak. A natural fermentation will occur at cool temperatures over the next one to two months, and then a small amount of stirring helps start malolactic fermentation. The wine is then racked, fined and lightly filtered before bottling 11 months after picking. A complete chardonnay.

You get in trouble for making links to Australian wine being like Burgundy, and I agree, we don’t make wine like Burgundy. All I’m saying, is that when I sat outside with dinner and had a glass of the GC, it reminded me of the time I sat in the square in Meursault and chose the “expensive” glass of wine. That smell of chalky cellars and stone fruit mixed with barrel char and something match stick like. A softness and tension that’s more like a gentle pull than either or. At this level of quality, hyperbole is all we have, and I hate that. It appears foolish at best and untrustworthy at worst. So here goes nothing. A green gold colour in the glass, tending towards straw, it’s crystal clear, and if liquid can appear chiselled, then this is it. The nose is restrained yet detailed, a common thread from this house. It’s precise yet comforting. It’s redolent of light caramel (I shouldn’t lead off with that, but it’s there) ripe nectarine, struck match; faintly, and barrel spice. I guess the caramel note is more appropriately a creaminess with warm barrel notes, but who has time to explain it all. The palate leaves you feeling relaxed, a lovely softness and masked acidity that makes your mouth water, but not feel like you’ve encountered too much acid. It’s alarmingly supple and easy to drink and the way it sits quietly in the glass makes it easy to see how these types of great wines can easily be overlooked for loud, brash, show ponies. Exquisite, perhaps, peerless, unquestionably, - Ben Knight (For Nick Farr).

The Finer Details
Style - White Wine
Varietal - Chardonnay
Country - Australia
Region - Geelong, Victoria
Vintage - 2022
Bottle Size - 750ml
ABV - 13.5%