Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses 2023

Lauded wine critic, Jancis Robinson boldly compares young Benjamin Leroux to the legendary Henri Jayer, 'You may remember that when I asked Allen Meadows, aka Burghound, who he thought might be a natural heir to the late great Henri Jayer of Burgundy, one of the two people he cited was young Benjamin Leroux of Domaine Comte Armand.' Henri Jayer is synonymous with Burgundy and remains one of the most revered wine personalities of the 20th century.

If Jayer is the undisputed king of Burgundy, then Benjamin Leroux is emerging as his rightful heir. Leroux shares Jayer's perfectionism and diligence, with a remarkable ability to uncover potential in challenging sites. His meticulous vineyard and cellar techniques ensure that each wine reflects a steadfast commitment to quality, much like his revered predecessor.

Born and bred in Beaune, Leroux was a prodigy, studying at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune from age 15 and taking the reins at the esteemed Domaine Comte Armand when he was just 24. Leroux would stay at Comte Armand for fifteen vintages, while simultaneously launching his eponymous négociant operation in 2007. By 2014 Leroux left Comte Armand—in great shape, to concentrate on his personal venture. The first stage of his evolution allowed him to establish the winery (in the old Jaboulet-Vercherre premises off the Beaune périphérique) and refine his ideas and understanding of the terroirs with which he wanted to work. The way Leroux structured this side of his business was highly innovative. His aim was to create the same quality standards of the finest domaines, despite not owning most of the vineyards.

In tandem with his excelling négociant business, Leroux has quietly been building up his family’s impressive domaine holdings, which now run to eight hectares. Though he worked these vineyards organically and biodynamically from the beginning, it took him several years to apply for organic certification, which came in 2016. Ben’s first vineyard purchase was a 0.16-hectare slice of Batard-Montrachet in 2009, though most of Leroux’s white vineyards lie in Meursault and top-tier parcels in Genevrières-Dessus and Charmes-Dessus. For the reds he farms his beloved Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous le Bois, in Volnay Santenots and there are a number of small parcels in Vosne-Romanée. These wines are a reminder of why people buy, drink and obsess over great Burgundy.