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Penfolds Grange + St Henri: The Collector's Set
Two of Australia's most enduring red wine expressions, together in one collection. Grange and St Henri represent opposite poles of the Penfolds phi...
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98 Points
The 2013 Comtes de Champagne is a towering Champagne, as it was last year. Rich, sumptuous and explosive, the 2013 soars out of the glass with a captivating mix of tropical fruit, apricot, passion fruit, baked apple tart, mint and yellow flowers. It is one of the most explosive, extroverted Comtes I have ever tasted. Impressive.
Nervy and tight with notes of crushed almonds, chalk, white grapefruit, digestive biscuits, lemons and apricot stones. Hints of fennel and white pepper. Deep and mineral, with plenty of power. Very fine bubbles. Long drive at the end. Try after 2024.
The 2013 Comtes de Champagne is a superb wine that has an old-school balance, acid-driven and refreshing with great depth. Pale straw in the glass, the nose offers white flowers, roasted chestnut and fine, freshly zested lemons. With a little air there are notes of brioche and cream, but the balance is cool and fresh. The palate is defined by a streak of acid that drives the palate forward, cutting through a silky, fine and persistent mousse. Preserved lemons, honeysuckle and apple blossom all come through, with a smoky struck flint character that builds on the finish. The leesy, supple richness builds on the palate on the back end, unfurling nicely to highlight the ageing potential. Vertical, intense and long, this is an excellent vintage here.
After the relatively easygoing 2012 comes the more serious 2013 vintage. A long growing season with a late harvest has marked the wine with intense acids. The aromas are also cool and intense: lemony fruit on the palate is fragranced with just a hint of coffee beans. As the wine warms in the glass, herbaceous nuances emerge (and a dusting of almonds for good measure). Full of nervy energy from start to finish, the mid-palate interjects a ripe juiciness, hinting at the oft-ignored ripeness of this vintage. The acidity and extended lees aging have imparted a delicate salinity on the long, complex finish. Phenominally phenolic! This precise and fresh rendition of Comtes de Champagne may threaten to topple 2008 from its throne in the decades ahead. Excellent! Drink from 2028-2055. Tasted: 3-Nov-23.